Given the lack of a logo I'm assuming it was perhaps cast in the 1950s or 60s? The only markings I've found so far is a "200" cast into the front right foot and an upside-down "R65" cast on the base below the heel, there is also what looks like a little tag mounted that says "14065". It has cast in the anvil the name 'Fisher', the eagle and a date of 1906. I found a pic in my Anvil book that confirm that and called it a Saw makers anvil listed under Fisher Norris. The seller though it was for tuning circular saw blades. ![]() I suppose the gray could be some sort of primer, but I suspect it may have been the original paint job and this was a navy anvil, I believe the Navy purchased Fishers exclusively. 1 I just took this home and like to learn more about it. It seems to have a heavily flaking layer of creamish colored paint over, what appears to be Navy Gray. It has no logo-but I'm almost 100% sure it is a Fisher because of the shape, bolt lugs, and weight cast into the right front foot (200). That converts to 182 pounds, and a digital scale had it at 180. That marks are on it is the hundred weight on the left side, it is 1 2 14. I have tried all the tricks I can think of to pull any maker's marks off the side, but I'm afraid it is too far gone. You may not be able to tell from the photos but it looks like it has barely been used, needless to say I was not willing to leave the auction without it. I just got my anvil this past weekend from New York. Peter Wright Anvil Weight clearly marked in English Hundredweight with the midle numeral. sand smooth and you will never know where it was.I just picked up this anvil at an auction for a good price. On a Fisher the top of the horn and the step are also tool steel. Since it is narrow and everything else around it is rock solid, you can simply fill the cut with your MIG or stick welder. Certain to get the OCD visitor into a cold sweatĪt risk of getting stoned, once you have your radius done, that cut will still be visible but much more shallow. His collection currently contains over 500 anvils, including the only complete collection of every weight of Fisher anvil ever sold. it somehow conveys the concept that a perfectly straight crisp 90 degree edge is a requirement.īy the way I like the off centre bolting down provision of that Fisher. I sincerely don't know why manufacturers don't supply anvils with a small radius. It is crisp edges from factory that cause most chips, well that and carelessness. It only has the 15 indicating its weight. Fisher anvil was made in the 1950s, when Fisher was not marking them in the traditional way. Key Takeaways Look for stamped weights, lugs, and round horns to spot old, handmade anvils easily. Exactly how it looked when made, before anyone took a hammer or hot steel to it. Radius is personal preference, but certainly necessary. This anvil is a 100 point anvil on the FARS scale. And have a smaller even radius on the other side. Made by a unique method of casting iron over the tool steel plates to implement the weld. Clue 4 is the handling holes in the waist, cast anvils do not have those. ![]() The first '1' is one Hundredweight (112lbs), the second '1' is a quarter of a hundredweight (28 lbs), the 3rd digit is the pounds. Well, I cant find one with a star on it either, but that is definitely an English-made wrought iron anvil with a thin steel face. My questions: When did Fisher start or stop casting bolt-holes into the feet of the anvil Fisher first put the lugs on anvils in 1892. Currently owned by Joshua Kavett, Howell Tnsp, NJ. The 1.1.20 indicates the weight in the old english system your anvil originally weighed 160 pounds. Checking anvils in the museum would put that anvils weight around 300 lbs. Any thoughts on that plan?ĭepending on what you do on it, may be worth having a radius that starts as it is now and goes down gradually to nothing at the other end. Fisher Anvils: Made in Newport, Maine (1847 - 1852), then in Trenton, NJ at the original Trenton plant (1853 - 1961), then finally by Crossley Machine Works (1962 - 1979). ![]() The left side is in much better condition, so I may sand a 3/32" or so radius on it. It would clean up nearly everything but the cut mark. I had considered continuing that radius the entire length of the right side. ![]() The guy I bought it from dressed that corner.
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